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Flying over the Andes Mountain Range from Santiago to Punta Arenas at sunrise is a sight – and a feeling – I will never forget. The majestic snow-covered landscape filled me with awe. It’s a never-ending wilderness – from the glaciers and frozen rivers to the towers of Torres del Paine, it is truly spectacular from start to finish.
This was the start of the Tusk Photo Patagonia Pumas tour that promised a week of puma tracking and a few days of landscape photography in and around Torres Del Paine National Park, Chile. Adventure travel at its finest.
After a few days in Punta Arenas, we headed to Torres Del Paine via Porto Natales. It was a public holiday, and everything was closed in Porto Natales, but I’d love to get back there to explore this quaint little town. We eventually ended up in Cerro Castillo, the town where we would stay over while chasing pumas.
Tip: If you get to the town, make sure you head over to the coffee shop—a lovely curio and coffee shop full of wonderful goodies to take back home with you.
In winter, the owner’s dogs cuddle up on the chairs at the fireplace and must be photographed even more than the pumas. Chilean food and wine are really tasty, as are the beers and the Pisco Sours, a local drink made from grapes. We were spoilt with delicious breakfasts and dinners and received packed lunches in the field.
The puma tracking experience takes place on a property next to the National Park, Estancia Laguna Amarga. Here, you are allowed to alight from your vehicle with a guide.
After years of puma/people/livestock conflict, the owners of Amarga realized the importance of conservation. That’s when they converted the farm to an ecotourism operation, protecting these beautiful wild cats and welcoming visitors from across the world.
The national park has pumas. However, you must stay in your car at all times except at designated viewing points. But everyone is allured by tracking the cats on foot.
Our daily routine would be to have breakfast around 6-7 a.m. and then head out to the farm. It only gets light around 9 a.m., so days are short, and you need to be in the zone at first light. Pumas are located primarily by sight, so our tracker would leave ahead of us and drive to the highest points in the park, scanning for pumas in the valleys.
Once he located them, he called the driver guide, and we quickly headed to the area. Once we stopped, you took everything you thought you would need for the sighting. In our case, we took all our cameras and lenses as the sightings are dynamic and could change at any minute.
Our days were filled with searching for pumas, which was not always easy, and spending time with these beautiful cats. At times, we’d be lucky enough to have them pass right by us, and other times, a bit further away. Other species we enjoyed viewing were the herds of guanacos (the pumas’ main prey), massive condors, and other birds.
Then there were the landscapes—in Torres del Paine, it doesn’t matter which way you look; there’s a mind-blowing view in any direction. We spent a few days concentrating on landscape photography, and the untouched beauty of the park did not disappoint. Snow-covered peaks, light blue glacier water, and the most magical light at dusk and dawn are a recipe for good shots. Well, there, you get it all the time.
Tip: We were lucky to have little wind, but remember that the wind can become strong—stronger than you can imagine—so take care to anchor your tripod in windy conditions (and watch your car door when opening it).
Ensure you have a comfortable backpack to carry your extras. For our first sighting, we hiked a couple of km over a few hills, following a female puma and her two playful cubs against the backdrop of a snowy landscape.
As with most things in life, it’s good to be as strong and fit as possible so that you’re ready for whatever may come your way. Most of the time, sightings are easy, and you don’t move too much, but there are times when you need to trek a bit—and the more snow, the tougher it can be to move through the snow.
In terms of camera equipment, I took lenses from 16-35, 70-200, 400 and 800mm and carried and used all of them (next time, the 24-70 goes along). Animal-in-environment shots are first prize, and getting the Torres Towers in the background is on everyone’s agenda. As I mentioned, the scenes are dynamic. One minute, you’re sitting around photographing with your 400mm, and the cat gets up and walks right past you – so having your gear ready and with you is paramount to your photographic success.
We were expecting cold weather, and over the two weeks, we experienced temperatures between -9 degrees Celsius and +11 degrees Celsius.
As with most colder weather destinations, the key is layering, as the temperatures can rise quite a bit at midday, allowing one to get rid of one layer. I ended up always wearing my warm jacket but, at times, removed the second layer. As one stays out all day it is good to head out each morning being prepared for whatever may come your way. Your most important barrier in protecting yourself is against the wind. If you can keep the wind off your body, you have won 90% of the battle!
If you want to visit this fantastic location, this is what I suggest in terms of clothing for a winter Patagonian trip:
This will be your waterproof/windproof jacket. You can choose from two options:
Take a variety of fleece tops full zip or half zip to wear under the jacket.
Wear these under your fleece.
Preferably Merino, as it helps with moisture & odour – this traps the warmth near your skin.
A thin-liner glove with a heavier insulated outer wind- and waterproof glove will do the trick. Since gloves will be on and off all the time, try getting a glove clip or carabiner to clip your gloves to your belt loop so that you don’t lose them.
Also, get hand warmer pads if possible (only for the middle of winter when colder).
Depending on how cold affects you, you have various options:
Patagonia is wild and has an untouched beauty that must be seen and experienced to fully appreciate it. I personally love photographic trips where one can actively pursue the target species on foot, and I would recommend this to any adventure seeker with a love for wildlife. Heading to the park for some summer hiking may just be in the cards, too.
Photos and text: Jackie Gouverneur
